Krak des Chevaliers and Apamea

So I arrived into my hotel in Hama just before lunch to discover that a tour to Krak des Chevaliers and Apamea, two places on my planned itinerary was leaving in five minutes so I got my stuff together and got in a taxi with an English guy and a Japanese couple, as well as our driver and sped back the way I had just come! As we neared Krak des Chevaliers we could make out the enormous castle sitting on a distant peak. The immensity of the castle described by Paul Thorough as the “epitome of the dream castle of jousts” became clearer as we approached. We had almost two hours to explore the castle which was just barely enough. The current structure dates mostly from the mid 12th century and is in a remarkable state given the passage of time and the battles it has witnessed. From vaults to stables, towers to chapels and bath houses the castle is a delight to explore and it would have been easy to spend twice as long but Apamea beckoned.

Driving North through the sparse countryside we arrived at Apamea before dusk and saw this spectacular 3rd Century sight in the long light of evening. Set on a wild high grassy plain this abandoned trading post was once famed for its horses and was home to over 30,000 mares, 3,000 stallions and about 500 war elephants, the tanks of its Golden Age around 200AD. The most interesting section is the main highway flanked on both sides by enormous pillars of grey granite that stretches for about 2 kilometres. The site also boasts the remains of an enormous amphitheatre as well as a monumental fountain and a mosaic museum. We wandered leisurely about the site until the sun set over the ruins. Were it not for Palmyra this would be the premier tourist site of Syria but as it is few people visit this site which is a real shame as it is really worth the effort.

- David