Wednesday, 24 December 2008

Day 1: Nawalgarh (Rajasthan)

This was going to be my first proper trip to the Land of the Maharajahs since my visit some 14 years ago to Jaipur. Rajasthan has long been popular with travellers due to its rich and colourful heritage. To see it all in just 6 days would be impossible. So what I had planned on this trip was to try to get a good flavour of what this state is famous for – its Camels, Forts and Deserts ... thus the name of our new tour.

Set off early from Delhi and headed towards the Shekhawati region, an area famous for its dry landscapes and ornate havelis – a particular style of architecture attributed to the palaces of the region. Having stopped for a bite midway, I finally reached Nawalgarh, a small village/town famous for the above. I would be staying at a fantastic eco-lodge which takes its eco-credentials very seriously, from both a cultural and environmental perspective. The owner has created rural cottages consistent with those found in neighbouring villages.

After freshening up, I headed off for a tour of the havelis. The town is dotted with them, many of which are now gradually crumbling, but are nonetheless extremely impressive for their intricate design and painted murals. Just wandering around them one could imagine what they must have been like in their hayday... maharajahs being entertained by traditional dancers and folk music and local issues being discussed with representatives of the rich and poor. I then headed on to the extremely impressive Podar Haveli Museum, which had been kept in pristine condition. Not only was the artwork on the walls beautifully vibrant, but it also contained examples of Rajasthani artifacts, instruments and a lot more.

I then wandered through the small town centre where I jostled for space with camel and donkey carts, cycles, rickshaws and people. I also caught glimpses of the colourful Rajasthani turbans and twirling moustaches. Again this felt like India but not the India I had got used to in Delhi, so it was really refreshing. I headed back to the eco-lodge for an excellent dinner eaten on plates made from local leaves, and all vegetables had been grown organically in plots at the back. There were a few people over from France who were also staying in the same place, and it was reassuring to know that they had really been blown away by the sounds and colours. The rest of this trip promises to be fun then!

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