Day 1: Nawalgarh (Rajasthan)

This was going to be my first proper trip to the Land of the Maharajahs since my visit some 14 years ago to Jaipur. Rajasthan has long been popular with travellers due to its rich and colourful heritage. To see it all in just 6 days would be impossible. So what I had planned on this trip was to try to get a good flavour of what this state is famous for – its Camels, Forts and Deserts ... thus the name of our new tour.

Set off early from Delhi and headed towards the Shekhawati region, an area famous for its dry landscapes and ornate havelis – a particular style of architecture attributed to the palaces of the region. Having stopped for a bite midway, I finally reached Nawalgarh, a small village/town famous for the above. I would be staying at a fantastic eco-lodge which takes its eco-credentials very seriously, from both a cultural and environmental perspective. The owner has created rural cottages consistent with those found in neighbouring villages.

After freshening up, I headed off for a tour of the havelis. The town is dotted with them, many of which are now gradually crumbling, but are nonetheless extremely impressive for their intricate design and painted murals. Just wandering around them one could imagine what they must have been like in their hayday... maharajahs being entertained by traditional dancers and folk music and local issues being discussed with representatives of the rich and poor. I then headed on to the extremely impressive Podar Haveli Museum, which had been kept in pristine condition. Not only was the artwork on the walls beautifully vibrant, but it also contained examples of Rajasthani artifacts, instruments and a lot more.

I then wandered through the small town centre where I jostled for space with camel and donkey carts, cycles, rickshaws and people. I also caught glimpses of the colourful Rajasthani turbans and twirling moustaches. Again this felt like India but not the India I had got used to in Delhi, so it was really refreshing. I headed back to the eco-lodge for an excellent dinner eaten on plates made from local leaves, and all vegetables had been grown organically in plots at the back. There were a few people over from France who were also staying in the same place, and it was reassuring to know that they had really been blown away by the sounds and colours. The rest of this trip promises to be fun then!

SUNDERBANS (DAY 3)

Had to make an early start today for the trip to the Sunderbans. We set off by minibus to the small village of Sonakhali and then it was a 3 hour boat ride to the Tiger Camp where I would be staying. The boat journey was excellent with tea and coffee served as we cruised our way along the delta. I already felt a million miles from the chaos of Kolkata. Our guide, Mr. Raptan had been leading tours for the past 20 years and gave us a brief introduction to the Sunderbans. The reserve is actually split between India and Bangladesh with 40% lying on the Indian side. After almost 3 hours relaxing on the river we finally arrived at our camp which will be home for the next 2 nights.

The camp is set on the riverfront and everything run in a very eco-friendly manner, from the use of solar panels to the sustainable use of water and raw materials. The camp has a range of accommodation ranging from tents and huts to fully equipped AC cottages. I had opted for the non-AC hut which was fine for this time of year.

After a lavish buffet lunch we set off for our first cruise amongst the mysterious mangroves. We were all on the lookout for one thing – the infamous man-eating tigers of the Sunderbans. Tigers have been known to swim across the river and venture into villages killing and eating many humans every year. Fisherman and honey-collectors who venture deeper into the mangroves have come up with a simple yet effective way of warding away this predator. Tigers are not known to attack from the front (such cowards!), so people wear masks on the back of their heads in the hope they won't be attacked. Apparently it works... to some extent!

The river and the mangroves seemed endless and we caught occasional glimpses of fisherman hurling nets into the water, scooping up plenty of fish. The weather was fantastic albeit a little humid. We cruised along spotting numerous kingfishers and other birds, as well as the odd monitor lizard but no tiger sighting. The encouraging news was that tiger numbers have steadily increased in the region totalling some 270. Although we knew the chances of spotting one in an area of 2500 sq kn were going to be remote.

After we got back to the camp, some locals performed folk dance and music after which we proceeded to the outdoor dining area. I like this buffet style of dining, and naturally ate to bursting point... my favourite were the delicious kofteh, these were balls made of raw banana which were fried and cooked in mustard-based gravy.

Afterwards I got chatting to the manager and staff who were all extremely friendly, before retiring to the comfort of my hut... tomorrow is an early start.

-Rahul

KOLKATA (DAY 2)

After omelette and toast in the garden, I set off with my guide for the day to 'Imperial Kolkata', the main area where the British had built most of its grandiose buildings. I had heard from many travellers that out of the major Indian cities, Kolkata had the most character and I was starting to see why. Kolkata had been the former capital of British India, and as a result a lot of the architecture resembled that of 19th and early 20th century Britain. This is perhaps the only city in India which has a functioning but creaking tram system and parts of the skyline of Old Kolkata are dotted with colonial reminders.

When people think of Kolkata, the first image that often comes to mind is poverty. Needless to say this does exist, but it is unfortunately commonplace in all Indian cities. Perhaps the main reason for this notion amongst Westerners is the media coverage of Mother Teresa's selfless work providing care for the poorest of India's poor. I was eager to see her 'Missionary of Charity' to learn a bit more about her and the work she started in Kolkata. Originally from Skopje (formerly part of Albania, but now Macedonia), she lived in absolute simplicity which was apparent from the set up of the missionary. One of the rooms has a very informative gallery of her life and her tomb lies in the centre of the room, which is visited by other nuns and the general public who pay respect on a daily basis. The missionary is run by volunteers from around the world who continue her good work. Despite her immense popularity for the noble work she carried out, there are those who also criticise her for the often negative connotations of Kolkata and there are others who go further and accuse her of religious imperialism. Personally, I wouldn't go so far as the latter, but I can understand how the media's portrayal of her has led to an unfairly one-sided perception of this city.

From there I headed on to the imperial part of Kolkata. The roads are afloat with a sea of funky yellow Ambassador cabs, introduced by the British and still produced in India! No visit to Kolkata is complete without a visit to the Victoria Memorial, and it really is something truly breathtaking. The Lonely Planet is spot-on when it describes it as a cross between the US Capitol building and the Taj Mahal. As the name suggests, it was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria, despite her never visiting these shores. From the outside it is a majestic white structure surrounded by tropical greenery, and inside there is a very impressive gallery of Kolkata depicting the transitions this city has gone through, before, during and after British colonial rule. Bengal used to be one state before the British divided it into two states, West and East Bengal. At the time of Paritition in 1947, East Bengal became East Pakistan and in 1971, Bangladesh. Kolkata was the original settling post of the British, under the auspices of the East India Company and it was from here that Indian raw materials were taken out of India and expensive British imports flooded India. Since West Bengal had been at the forefront of colonial rule, it was no surprise that there was a lot of political agitation in Kolkata, and in 1911, the British felt this was too much and shifted the capital inland to more stable Delhi.

OK, history lesson over! Moving on from the Memorial, I visited St John's Church, the High Court (from outside) and then the somewhat bizarre Marble Palace. The building is very grand and contains the prized collection of a wealthy Indian businessman, which consists of an eclectic mix of art, chandeliers, furniture and massive mirrors. We then went on to the backstreets of Kumartuli which is where grand statues of Hindu deities are made – some are used for local puja festivals and many are also exported. It was amazing to see how these were made, first from straw, then covered and detailed in clay, and then left to set before finally being painted.

Later in the evening, I met up with Randeep at a bar in the Broadway Hotel, and he was joined by 2 Aussies and a British guy by the name of John who was also staying at our guesthouse. The 2 Australians had actually been living in Kolkata for the past 12 years and had started walking tours showing the hidden side of this city. Immediately I thought this would be ideal for our tours as well and Randeep spoke highly of his experience on the walk. After a few beers and a good chat, John and I pencilled in Nov 5 for our walking trip. Before that though, I am off to the Sunderbans tomorrow, the world's largest mangrove forest. It should be an amazing contrast to the frenzy of Kolkata. I can't wait!
- Rahul

KOLKATA (DAY 1)

I flew into Kolkata with IndiGo, another of India's fledgling budget airlines, and was incredibly impressed by the whole flight experience – definitely something the likes of Ryanair and EasyJet could learn from in the UK, who seem more obsessed with cramming as many people into their aircrafts as possible. Anyway, the journey from the airport to the guesthouse was a pleasant one despite the traffic jams that typify any city. It was the last day of the 'Kali Puja' festival and as I entered the city I could see lots of pandals, lavish temporary temples, honouring Kali Maa, the Hindu goddess of destruction. These are then taken down to the Hoogly River (also part of the Ganges) by devotees and then immersed into the river. Unfortunately, since I arrived quite late I was unable to witness this.

I arrived at the superb guesthouse that we plan to use for our tours, with each room having a particular theme. I was staying in the Rural India room which had been done up fantastically well. The roof was thatched with straw and the interior walls done in clay with figures painted on the walls, complete with flatscreen TV! It was very compact but very tastefully done. I ventured into the garden area where there were a few tables and met another guest by the name of Randeep, who was also from the UK (Doncaster to be exact – Kevin Keegan's hometown!). Amazingly, he had been staying here for 3 months and was doing training/ internship at the Kolkata Stock Exchange. He had also travelled a lot within India and he told me some of the highlights to look out for in Kolkata. I was due to be picked up in the morning by the guide for city sight-seeing and based on what Randeep had told me, tomorrow should be an exciting day!
- Rahul

VARANASI – DAY 2

5am and it was still dark outside except for a few flickering lights. I joined the other shadows and headed towards the ghats which had already come to life. As my boat glided along the water it was as if a whole new drama was unfolding in front of my eyes. Women were huddled in small groups offering flowers and fruit to God and the River. A sadhu with his eyes closed and partially submerged offered prayers. Men and women dipped their heads beneath the water in deep contemplation. Newly lit candles started their journey down the river. Just as I was starting to take in the tranquility of the river in the early hours, there was a sudden boom of laughter... and again... some men had gathered for 'laughing yoga' which is supposed to be a fantastic stress reliever and work out! Further along the ghats people were doing 'conventional' yoga, some were singing the morning aarti, others washing themselves and some even brushing their teeth! One of the saddest things about this River is the pollution. There is no denying that the River is heavily polluted with effluent, plastic and other rubbish. But this is no ordinary River. It is revered by devout Hindus who are able to look beyond the dirt and consider the River nothing but sacred. Mind over matter, or however you want to put it.

As the boat ride was coming to an end, I witnessed something that words cannot describe. A lady was praying on the ghats when a stray cow wandered down and started to nibble at the fruit in her bag. Now cows are considered sacred by Hindus, so she appeared to be in somewhat of a dilemma as to how to get rid of the cow in a polite way. She was holding a small bell in her hand (which is commonly used in Hindu rituals) and she started to gently hit the cow on the head with it... at the same time another lady was throwing flowers on the cow from behind and asking it for blessings... all the while the cow continued to munch happily away! Absolutely classic! Nothing is quite what it seems in Varanasi!

After breakfast I headed off for the Temples tour, starting with the impressive Benares University, the world's largest Hindu university with some 20,000 students. It also houses the New Vishwanath Temple which contained many beautiful idols of Lord Shiva and other Hindu deities. From there I moved on to Sankat Mochen Temple, which pays homage to Lord Hanuman and then the Monkey Temple which is devoted to Goddess Durga. It's named as such because there are monkeys everywhere, most of which seem to be after prasad (food blessed by God). One of the fascinating things about India is how religion is intertwined so tightly with daily life. Varanasi is perhaps the truest example.

Varun, my guide for the day, was excellent – knowledgeable, humorous and polite – definitely someone we should use on future tours. He then took me across the river to the small fort town of Ramnagar. The former king had built up an interesting collection of relics and memorabilia, ranging from stuffed animals to a cadillac!

I had the evening to myself and I wanted to sample more of this intoxicating city at night, so I ventured into the market once more. Despite the constant chaos, everyone seems so calm here. People bump into one another and don't bat an eyelid, strangers gladly do favours for each other... it made me realise that back in the West we seem to have lost something. I seemed to walk endlessly criss-crossing the tiny alleyways avoiding the numerous obstacles in my way and finally I found the Lotus Lounge, an open-air chillout style restaurant overlooking one of the ghats. This place would be great at sunset, but unfortunately by the time I got there the sun had long gone. The vegetable curry went down a treat and I reluctantly headed back through the dusty streets and grabbed a rickshaw back to the hotel. It was another mind-blowing day.
- Rahul

VARANASI – DAY 1

Having somehow managed to navigate the chaotic streets in the back of an auto-rickshaw, I finally arrived at the magnificent Hotel Ganges View perched on the tip of Assi Ghat. A lone goat was roaming by the entrance, but as soon as I entered I was immediately struck by the character of the place. The hotel was filled with traditional artifacts and antiques and each room was beautifully done up. The hotel had an enchanting roof terrace overlooking the sacred River Ganges and the staff extremely friendly.

After a brief rest and a quick bite, I set off for Sarnath Temple, some 30 minutes from Varanasi. Sarnath is a holy pilgrimage site for Buddhists, as this is where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining Enlightenment. I arrived there at the same time as a group of Buddhist pilgrims from Sri Lanka. A stream of women dressed in white saris gently trickled through the temple ground. The 110 feet stupa was indeed impressive as were the surrounding ruins of an old temple and other monuments erected by the great Mauryan Emperor Asoka. After a contemplative stroll around the complex, I headed back to Varanasi.

Varanasi is located between the two rivers – Varuna and Asi, but it is also known by two other names. Amongst Indians it is more commonly known as Benares and it is also occasionally referred to by its older name, Kaasi. For consistency I will stick to calling it Varanasi. For Hindus, the Aarti ceremony is an important ritual and Varanasi is famous for its spine-tingling Aarti on the Ghats of the river (ghat is the set of steps by the river). It was approaching 6pm, so along with the guide I jumped into a boat at Assi Ghat which then made its way to another ghat for the aarti. The river was buzzing with activity. Boats with other tourists stared in disbelief at the spectacle unfurling before their eyes, local kids hopped effortlessly between boats offering tea and flowers. The sun had set and in the distance on one of the other ghats numerous funeral pyres were being lit as the dead were offered to the mighty River Ganges. We told the boatman not to go to close, as I felt somewhat uncomfortable spectating on someone else's grief. Hindus believe that if someone is born and then cremated by the River Ganges, then he or she will end the cycle of reincarnation. Lotus flowers with candles bobbed up and down in the water, gradually drifting off in the distance carrying someone's prayers.

There is something very special about Hindu ceremonies with the colours, flowers, incense and flames, but this Aarti ceremony was on an altogether different level. The ghat was packed with people and then seven men mounted on pedestals stood at the edge of the ghat offering incense, flowers, and lit diyas (lamps) as the aarti was chanted on the loudspeakers. The boats came to a standstill as everyone watched on. This must have lasted some 15-20 minutes but I had totally lost any concept of time in the process. One cannot even start to put the amazing sense of calmness afterwards into words. It was a privilege to watch and be a part of.

Afterwards I headed into the main market area and was confronted by activity entirely on a different scale. Varanasi is made up of thousands of narrow alleyways, crammed with people, saffron-robed sadhus (Hindu holy men) carrying holy pots with burning incense, scooters jostling for space, sacred cows ambling through with people stopping to take blessings, shops selling everything from trinkets, statues of deities and silk, for which Varanasi is famous. I eventually headed back to the hotel for dinner on the roof terrace where I could see this fascinating city lit up at night.

You can't help but be infected with Varanasi's energy and mysticism. I still feel on a high from the aarti and the walk through the market. Tomorrow starts with a 5am boat ride at sunrise. I can't wait. Really.
- Rahul

DELHI - VARANASI

Train travel is one of the highlights of travel in India and Indian stations are always teeming with activity from someone selling garam chai (hot tea) to someone offering joota polish (polish shoes). I eventually boarded the Delhi-Varanasi overnight train and the sun started to set as the train chugged its way out of the hustle and bustle of Delhi leaving behind a cacophony of hawkers and coolies (train porters).

I was booked into 2nd class AC sleeper, which was remarkably clean and comfortable. One of the common gripes of Indian trains is cleanliness, but there was no such issue on this journey. You can never go hungry on an Indian train with food and drinks continuously being offered as vendors boarded the train at various stops tempting the traveller with all kinds of delicious Indian snacks. I got chatting to a few other passengers on the train all looking forward to Varanasi, especially as they were going back to visit their families to enjoy Diwali, the biggest Hindu festival. I'd read much about India's holiest city (and one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities), and my excitement was fuelled all the more by fellow passengers explaining how Varanasi is the epitome of ancient India and that nothing can really prepare the first time visitor.

The seating berth cleverly converted to a bed with a few simple manoeuvres. I lay down, closed my eyes and drifted off... around 7am I was woken up for breakfast, which was hot stuffed aloo parathas (a type of Indian bread stuffed with potato) washed down with a cup of hot masala chai. I looked out of the window and villagers were going about their daily work with bullocks ploughing the fields. Within a matter of minutes the train made its final approach into Varanasi ... I quickly got my bags together, took one deep breath and stepped out on to the platform. I was as ready as i could be for the adventure that lay ahead.
- Rahul

Jaipur

From Agra we drove to Jaipur, stopping first at Fatepur Sikri. Fatepur Sikri was one of Akbar’s greatest projects, to design a perfect town. However he didn’t properly consider the location and a lack of water meant that it was abandoned only a few years after it was completed. The beauty and inspiration of the place has been very well preserved however and some of the design is breathtaking. After an hour or so of exploration we drove on to Jaipur. The hotel was lovely with a pool, plenty of outdoor seating areas, the occasional visiting peacock and a serenity unexpected in its location, and very rare in the busy city of Jaipur. The staff were very friendly too and quite a bit of fun.


The next day I was met by my guide and we did a tour of the palaces of Jaipur - the Wind Palace, effectively just a façade that was built so the royal Rajput women could view the comings and goings of the street, the Water Palace, now permanently flooded. From there we visited the Amber Fort, high up on the hill and we arrived, very royally on elephant back!

After the Amber Fort we drove to the spectacular city palace and the even more extraordinary Jantar Mantar, an observatory built in 1728 by Jai Singh that houses all kinds of incredible instruments including the world’s largest sundial and instruments to measure everything from the height of the North star, local time and various measurements of the heavenly bodies that were used to predict fortunes but also, more usefully effectively predict when the monsoon would start. It was a busy day but a very enjoyable one.

The following day I did my tour of the gem shops and the block print workshop, getting demonstrations of how the famous crafts of Jaipur are created and I was happy to see that there was again no sales pressure, and some beautiful souvenir options.

In the evening I headed to Galta on a whim and was very happy I did. The temple is dedicated to Hanuman, the monkey god and it is considered auspicious to feed the monkeys here. So I bought myself some nuts at the entrance and handfed the monkeys throughout the temple. Some three or four hundred gather at sunset awaiting the feeding, and despite this wonderful spectacle, there were very few tourists around, unlike the main city. On walking back to the entrance there was quite a bit of excitement and as I drew closer I saw why. Perched up on the side of the mountain in the disappearing light was a tiger, surveying the scene. Apparently there had been two of them a few minutes before but I missed one. Still it was the first tiger I had ever seen and was quite exciting. The next day we drove back to Delhi and then it was time to fly back to London. Time up on this trip but as I write Rahul is out exploring the temples of the holiest city of Varanasi before heading to Khajuraho to check out the temples and their saucy carvings from the Kama Sutra. Expect to hear more from him soon.

- Dave

Agra and the Taj Mahal

So my trip in the more touristy part of India had arrived. Quite different from the North East, in fact I saw single groups larger than all the foreigners I had seen in the North East in 3 months! But it was also interesting though in a different way. So I arrived into Agra on the early train, was dropped to my very comfortable hotel, and my guide picked me up to bring me to the Taj Mahal. We were dropped off short of the monument and had to take a rickshaw the last part.


It had been almost ten years since I’d last visited the Taj Mahal but still it took my breath away when I caught my first glimpse. The colour of the stone, the beautiful symmetry of the building, the incredible marble inlay work and the story of Shah Jahan’s love for his wife Mumtaz that inspired its creation make it a truly unique building. We spent a couple of hours taking in the Taj before driving across town to the Agra Fort where Shah Jahan was eventually imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb after overthrowing his father.

The room in the fort where his father was imprisoned has some of the best views of the Taj Mahal, scant consolation for Shah Jahan I’m sure. I also visited a workshop where the families of the creators of the Taj Mahal still ply their trade in marble-inlay work, and was very impressed with the quality of the produce but also the easy, laid-back approach to sales, unlike the street hawkers who are quite a pain in Agra specifically.



On my second day in Agra we drove out to Akbar’s mausoleum, about 10km from Agra. The building was built by Akbar, the third and greatest Mughal emperor and contains elements of Christian, Islamic and Hindu architecture in line with Akbar’s beliefs (and his wives, having one from each of the three faiths). The gardens were lovely and full of deer, monkeys and birds.

After that we drove to Itimad-ud-Daulah (better known as the Baby Taj). This beautiful building was effectively the precursor of the Taj, and many of the design elements were copied from this building. In the afternoon I went hotel hunting and checked out a load of hotels in Agra, varying from the adequate to the grandiose. I spent the evening listening to live music in a small restaurant and being amused by the local kids playing air guitar and trying to learn U2 songs.

Days 32, 33 and 34: Shillong and Tezpur

It's beginning to hot up here. I had to put the fan in the room on for the first time on the trip, and it's been on since. After a couple of lazy days in Shillong, enjoying the cafes, visiting the bustling Bara Bazaar market and relaxing by the picturesque Ward's Lake around which the city is built it was time to make a move again. So it was on to Tezpur, starting with a helicopter ride (my first) to Guwahati, which was quite fantastic, all the more so as I was the only passenger. It was quite remarkable watching the forested hills of Meghalaya suddenly give way to the flat plains of Assam. Then after a short taxi ride to the bus station and a seemingly never-ending bus journey I arrived in Tezpur, had some dinner and went to bed. This morning I went to check out the sights of Tezpur, mostly a series of parks, where I chilled out and read some of a book I picked up in Shillong, Strangers of the Mist, an account of War and Peace in the North East of India. It's quite an interesting and enlightening read.

Travelling alone in India can be an amusing experience. Today I was approached three times by Indians who wanted me to be in their photos with them. The first group stood behind me giggling for a while before one of the ladies finally came over and asked. My basic Hindi is certainly being put to the test here too, as there are very few people who can speak English in Assam. Time for a little study now. Tomorrow on to Jorhat, the heart of Assam tea, where I will visit the tea estates from the days of the Raj.

-Dave

Days 29, 30 and 31 - Meghalaya (Shillong and Cherrapunjee)

So I have fallen a couple of days behind on the blog. We arrived in Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya on Wednesday. It's a very pleasant town, with a lot more amenities than anywhere else we have been so far on this trip - widely available internet, cafes, bars, restaurants and a wide selection of hotels. Despite this there are few Western tourists. The vibe is very relaxed and friendly. We spent a lazy half day, eating well, drinking real coffee and generally taking it easy. Then we hopped in a shared jeep and were on our way to Cherrapunjee, the wettest place on the planet - well a little lodge outside Cherrapunjee, where we met Dennis, the manager, who was very friendly and a mine of useful information about the region and things to do there. After dinner we sat around the fire outside the lodge and chatted.

Yesterday morning we got up early and set out for the living root bridges. After a gentle downhill walk for about an hour we hit the steps. The steps are very steep and there are about 2,500 in the main stretch of them. At the bottom ours legs felt like jelly. After a few more twists and turns we came across our first root bridge. The tree's roots have been teased and trained to cross the river and attach to the opposite side by the "War Khasis". The gaps are then filled in with stones and pieces of wood. It is estimated to take about 15 years for it to be of use, but they can last up to 600 years. These bridges are about 120 to 150 years old and are growing in strength by the day. It was an incredible feat of patience and ingenuity. We passed a couple more before seeing the supreme achievemenet, a double decker root bridge, with 2 bridges on top of each other, both made from the roots of the same tree. Tolkien couldn't have imagined anything better! The steps were quite a different propostion on the way back up, and with each turn we prayed for an end in sight that never seemed to come. It was a tough day's walking but easily worth it. The Khasi people we met en route were amongst the most friendly, inquisitive and helpful of any we have met.

Yesterday evening Rahul left for Shillong and after a helicopter ride to Guwahati this morning flew on to Delhi, so I will do the rest of the trip in the North East by myself. This morning I did an easier walk to another root bridge on the other side of the lodge. It was tough enough all the same as my legs were still suffering from the previous days walking. after lunch I got a taxi back to Shillong, stopping at various waterfalls and viewpoints along the way, allowing me to appreciate the variety and beauty of Meghalaya. The fantastic thing about this trip has been its variety and Meghalaya has been no disappointment, also being completey different from Arunachal Pradesh and Assam. My friendly taxi driver spoke pretty good English (unlike AP and Assam, more people speak English in Meghalaya then do Hindi), and explained about the places we visited, and the election in the State whose results were announced today, as was evident by the numerous celebrations, people dancing in the streets and various party flags waving from most vehicles. We got stuck in a massive jam a few kilometres outside Shillong where a huge number of people and vehicles were gathered outside the house of the winning Congress candidate. Impressively the turnout in the election was over 89% but the full Statewide results will not be known until tomorrow morning, though it seems Congress have done well.

- Dave