Travel The Unknown

Back to Delhi

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 10:38:00 +0000

On touching down in Delhi, the temperature felt at least 10 degrees warmer and the sheer volume of people and traffic let me know immediately that I was back in the capital! Delhi often gets a bad rap, but to be fair this is a city in the middle of a phenomenal transition. I was only here 4 months ago, and development continues at relentless pace in the run up to the 2010 Commonwealth Games. The new metro system is one of the best I have experienced, and sometimes I forget I am in India. It is spotless, punctual, efficient and air-conditioned (a problem we still seem to have in London!). It is reckoned that this will ease traffic congestion on Delhi roads by 30% and of course reduce pollution.

Anyway, I had booked a Delhi tour for the following day and immediately India's fascinating and turbulent history became apparent. Outsiders from all parts of the world have at various times tried to get their hands on India's riches. One can see how dynasties and eras have overlapped with Hindu, Mughal and British influences in the architecture. Many of the old buildings in Delhi are remnants of the Mughal era, such as Red Fort and Qutab Minar. I also passed via the 'Rashtrapati Bhavan' (the Presidential House) and India Gate, a majestic arch similar in appearance to Paris' Arc de Triomphe, dedicated to Indian soldiers who had lost their lives during World War I.

After that we went on to Raj Ghat, the place where Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi, was cremated. A black marble platform sits in the middle of a serene garden, marking the spot where Gandhiji was cremated on 31 January 1948. Opposite Raj Ghat is the Gandhi National Museum which proudly displays Gandhiji's life, his philosophy and struggle for India's independence.

I stopped off for lunch at Lodi Restaurant, an excellent outdoor restaurant with a great ambience, and then rounded off my Delhi tour by visiting Akshardam Temple, the world's largest Hindu complex. It is a truly breathtaking structure intricately handcrafted from stone without any use of steel in its construction. As the lights came on, I watched the impressive musical fountain show followed by an inspiring boat ride through a model village depicting 10,000 years of India's rich heritage and culture. It was the perfect end to the day.

- Rahul

Days 41, 42, 43 and 44: Majuli, Lakhimpur and Tezpur

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 10:00:00 +0000

So I rented a bike for the final day in Majuli and rode out to Uttar Kamalabari Satra in the morning, about 5 kilometres away from Garamur, the village we stayed in. This was a smaller Satra with about 100 monks. I was given a very friendly welcome and some tea, then shown around by various monks, being passed on like a baton. When I reached the central prayer hall they were just starting their prayers so I was ushered in to join them, and we sat in a semi-circle around the monk with the heavy cymbal. The monks chanted and clapped, and I was amazed with the range of sounds that came from the cymbal - deep, soothing and entrancing. When one section would end, a voice would come from the other end of the hall, leading the next section to which a chant was replied from our semi-circle. The whole thing was very beautiful and I felt very privileged to be able to participate, carefully watching how I timed my claps. I spared them my vocals! I was intending to cycle on when the thunder in the not too distant sky dictated I return. But I was not quick enough and the rain caught me. It was funny passing the locals cycling with their umbrellas and already being soaked through I started to enjoy the rain, and do a little singing of my own. Those that passed looked at me in wonder, possibly wondering where I'd escaped from. The rest of the day was spent reading outside the cottage, being brought tea at regular intervals. This research can be tough at times!

The next morning it was time to leave. This was a bit of a rough journey, a shared jeep, a ferry, a bus, another ferry and another super-crowded bus with only standing room, and not even that as I had to tilt my head to stand up straight. The road was pretty bad and my head hit that roof on plenty of occasions. When I finally arrived in Lakhimpur, I met up with our operator from Itanagar and we went through the plan we had for the itinerary and a few other issues. He was happy, and made a couple of more suggestions too that we will have to look into. Then it was dinner and bed.

Yesterday was a lazy day in Lakhimpur, eating, reading, relaxing, watching the Last King of Scotland on an Indian Movie channel. I did check out the cobra temple. It's not quite as exciting as it sounds, just a temple with a kitschy cobra coiled around the spire.

Today the plan was to go to Guwahati, so after an early breakfast and shower I was on the bus. I was told the whole trip would take seven, maybe eight hours. After seven hours we were in Tezpur, and it was two o' clock. Knowing there were at least another four hours to Guwahati, and it would be dark by then, I decided to stop in Tezpur to see what was happening for Holi, the festival of colours, one of India's biggest and best loved. Within minutes I was set upon by a gang of unruly middle-aged gentlemen who covered me in powders of every hue, then giggled and posed for photos!

In the hotel I just met some employess of Grameen Bank, co-workers of Muhammad Yunus, the Bangladeshi Nobel Peace Prize winner from 2006... who are looking to set up a similar micro-credit scheme in Assam. Very nice and interesting guys. They've just gone for dinner but I have agreed to talk to them some more later on.

Tomorrow on to Guwahati, a little business to take care of there, then fly to Delhi, take the Delhi tour that Rahul has hopefully organised for me, and then back to London. It all seems to have happened so quick!

-Dave

Days 38, 39 and 40: Sibsagar and Majuli

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 09:00:00 +0000

It's a quarter to ten in the evening and I just realised it's Paddy's Day when I checked the date to write this blog. Woops! It's easy to lose touch with the outside world out here. Anyway Happy Paddy's Day to anyone reading, no Guinness this year but did have some rice beer earlier. Otherwise I will have to content myself with some Kila on my speakers.

So Sibsagar was nice enough without being mind blowing. The main Shiva temple is pretty impressive with a 33m high dome and a line of sadhus (India's spiritual wanderers) as you enter. The market was quite colourful too, otherwise there was not a lot to see or do. So yesterday I left for Majuli, the world's largest river island in the middle of the Brahmaputra, again on public transport. One bus, another bus, then a very overcrowded ferry (for 2 hours! This is some river!), and finally a taxi the last 7km over potholed roads to arrive at the accomodation of choice, some traditional style bamboo huts. That said there wasn't exactly much in the way of choice but this place is nice, bamboo everything, but electricity, hot water available and mosquito nets. After a tasty Assamese dinner, I arranged for a jeep to take myself and a French couple, who have been on the road for 15 months, to explore a little. They were the first foreigners I had seen for a week. The lodge owner also agreed to be our guide.

So this morning after breakfast we hit the road. Majuli itself is very picturesque, full of rice fields and smiling faces. The first stop was Auniati Satra. A satra is like a monestary for Vaishnavism, a branch of Hinduism where Vishnu, particularly in the incarnation of Krishna, is the main focus of worship. This satra has 400 monks, who were very friendly and happily posed for photos whatever they were doing. After visiting the living quarters and the prayer hall we went to a Shiva Baba next door, which was essentially a very small room with an extermely wiry old man (ninety we were told) with hair that was matted and several times his length sat surrounded by piles of fruit, a basin of milk, ganga (marijuana) and his chillum (an Indian pipe). Apparently he subsisted merely on fruit, milk and ganga! He blessed people who came and they supplied him his three essentials. We were told that he didn't allow photos but when our guide asked he agreed so you will be able to see what I mean soon enough!

From there we visited a mask worshop, where we were shown how the masks used in the dramas performed here are made. Next we visited a village where everyone was involved in the production of pottery urns, and they showed us again the process involved including heating them en masse over a great fireplace, where people took turns to keep watch. Then we went for lunch in a nearby Derry village (no connection to the city in Northern Ireland that I could fathom). The Derry are one of the tribes from Majuli, and the people again were very friendly and the food was very tasty, and served with rice beer. After lunch we visited one more village, this time a Mishing village, where one young child turned and fled when he saw me, and could not be consoled by his amused mother for quite some time. Tired after a long day we came back to relax for a while, then had dinner and showed the French couple some photos of Arunachal, which I believe has now sneaked into their planned itinerary! Ok bedtime, goodnight.

-Dave

Days 35, 36 and 37: Jorhat and Sibsagar

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 12:43:00 +0000

So on Wednesday it was on to Jorhat. Another short bus journey made long by plenty of faffing about. But it was not all bad as I got talking to a young guy on the bus (in my shaky Hindi), and when his brother called him I was put onto him and invited to their house in Mariani, an oil town near the border to Bangladesh. I accepted and took his number, planning to go yesterday. In te evening while waiting for dinner to be served, I checked out a nearby bar, where I was the only customer. So I sat at the bar and chatted (in Hindi!) with the two Nepali-Assamese behind the bar. It was a great feeling though I'm sure the beer helped!

Yesterday after trying in vain to contact my invitees to Mariani, I managed to organise a visit to a local tea factory and gardens for this morning, and eventually also a taxi to go there.

This morning I went out to the tea factory, where I was met by the estate manager, and then shown around by the factory manager. It was very interesting seeing how many stages were involved and what kind of issues there are in the fields from Red Spiders spread around by tresspassing cows to worker protests particularly around bonus time... didn't sound that unfamiliar! Then after breakfast it was on to Sibsagar, where nobody seemed to know where my hotel of choice was, so I settled for another, which is actually very nice, has BBC World and a quick internet cafe across the road... am I still in Assam? Tomorrow I will check out the old temples of Sibsagar, remnants of the mightly Ahom Dynasty, many dating from the 1700s.

-Dave

Days 32, 33 and 34: Shillong and Tezpur

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 04:20:00 +0000

It's beginning to hot up here. I had to put the fan in the room on for the first time on the trip, and it's been on since. After a couple of lazy days in Shillong, enjoying the cafes, visiting the bustling Bara Bazaar market and relaxing by the picturesque Ward's Lake around which the city is built it was time to make a move again. So it was on to Tezpur, starting with a helicopter ride (my first) to Guwahati, which was quite fantastic, all the more so as I was the only passenger. It was quite remarkable watching the forested hills of Meghalaya suddenly give way to the flat plains of Assam. Then after a short taxi ride to the bus station and a seemingly never-ending bus journey I arrived in Tezpur, had some dinner and went to bed. This morning I went to check out the sights of Tezpur, mostly a series of parks, where I chilled out and read some of a book I picked up in Shillong, Strangers of the Mist, an account of War and Peace in the North East of India. It's quite an interesting and enlightening read.

Travelling alone in India can be an amusing experience. Today I was approached three times by Indians who wanted me to be in their photos with them. The first group stood behind me giggling for a while before one of the ladies finally came over and asked. My basic Hindi is certainly being put to the test here too, as there are very few people who can speak English in Assam. Time for a little study now. Tomorrow on to Jorhat, the heart of Assam tea, where I will visit the tea estates from the days of the Raj.

-Dave

Days 29, 30 and 31 - Meghalaya (Shillong and Cherrapunjee)

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Sat, 08 Mar 2008 11:32:00 +0000

So I have fallen a couple of days behind on the blog. We arrived in Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya on Wednesday. It's a very pleasant town, with a lot more amenities than anywhere else we have been so far on this trip - widely available internet, cafes, bars, restaurants and a wide selection of hotels. Despite this there are few Western tourists. The vibe is very relaxed and friendly. We spent a lazy half day, eating well, drinking real coffee and generally taking it easy. Then we hopped in a shared jeep and were on our way to Cherrapunjee, the wettest place on the planet - well a little lodge outside Cherrapunjee, where we met Dennis, the manager, who was very friendly and a mine of useful information about the region and things to do there. After dinner we sat around the fire outside the lodge and chatted.

Yesterday morning we got up early and set out for the living root bridges. After a gentle downhill walk for about an hour we hit the steps. The steps are very steep and there are about 2,500 in the main stretch of them. At the bottom ours legs felt like jelly. After a few more twists and turns we came across our first root bridge. The tree's roots have been teased and trained to cross the river and attach to the opposite side by the "War Khasis". The gaps are then filled in with stones and pieces of wood. It is estimated to take about 15 years for it to be of use, but they can last up to 600 years. These bridges are about 120 to 150 years old and are growing in strength by the day. It was an incredible feat of patience and ingenuity. We passed a couple more before seeing the supreme achievemenet, a double decker root bridge, with 2 bridges on top of each other, both made from the roots of the same tree. Tolkien couldn't have imagined anything better! The steps were quite a different propostion on the way back up, and with each turn we prayed for an end in sight that never seemed to come. It was a tough day's walking but easily worth it. The Khasi people we met en route were amongst the most friendly, inquisitive and helpful of any we have met.

Yesterday evening Rahul left for Shillong and after a helicopter ride to Guwahati this morning flew on to Delhi, so I will do the rest of the trip in the North East by myself. This morning I did an easier walk to another root bridge on the other side of the lodge. It was tough enough all the same as my legs were still suffering from the previous days walking. after lunch I got a taxi back to Shillong, stopping at various waterfalls and viewpoints along the way, allowing me to appreciate the variety and beauty of Meghalaya. The fantastic thing about this trip has been its variety and Meghalaya has been no disappointment, also being completey different from Arunachal Pradesh and Assam. My friendly taxi driver spoke pretty good English (unlike AP and Assam, more people speak English in Meghalaya then do Hindi), and explained about the places we visited, and the election in the State whose results were announced today, as was evident by the numerous celebrations, people dancing in the streets and various party flags waving from most vehicles. We got stuck in a massive jam a few kilometres outside Shillong where a huge number of people and vehicles were gathered outside the house of the winning Congress candidate. Impressively the turnout in the election was over 89% but the full Statewide results will not be known until tomorrow morning, though it seems Congress have done well.

- Dave

Day 28: Kaziranga

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Wed, 05 Mar 2008 07:04:00 +0000

Had a bit of a lie in today... woke up at 6am, as we were off to Panbari Forest Reserve, the home of the hoolock gibbon (a rare primate) and other wildlife. Entering the forest is out of bounds at the moment, but as the forest guards hadn't turned up as yet, our enthusiastic guide sneaked us in. The forest floor was decked with leaves of all colours, the air thick with humidity and the sound of birds was overwhelming at times. However, before long we caught a glimspe of the gibbon. A female gibbon had recently been introduced to the forest to help boost the dwindling gibbon population. We didn't get to hear their peculiar cry, but nonetheless there was a thrilling moment when it hung from the tree and stared down at us for a few seconds. Our excellent guide tried in vain to show us some other monkeys, so after 4 hours of walking we headed back to the hotel where we had a much needed 'brunch.

Since we were so pleased with the guide we headed on with him to the Western Range of Kaziranga in the afternoon. The terrain was mainly grassland and soon we saw herds of deer drinking from the vast pond along with wild elephants and buffalos. The highlight was the rhino stand off we witnessed. One rhino appeared to taunt another rhino which was partially submerged in the water. He suddenly emerged from the water and both rhinos then engaged in a heated stand off. Initially they growled at each other, stared at each other in silence and then the male chased the female into the thick bush. After ten minutes we were about to head off, and then they suddenly re-emerged running out of the bushes. Believe it or not, this was part of their mating ritual! Finally the male conceded defeat (for the time being) and returned to the comfort of the water. There was also a heartstopping moment when we thought we could see a tiger perched on its haunches by the roadside, but that proved to be a false alarm, and turned out to be some grass! The jungle can play tricks on your eyes at times (honest)!

We returned to the excellent Jupuri Ghar, enjoyed a superb Assamese meal fit for 6 people and then lumbered off to bed... tomorrow is another early start for the next Northeast state, Megahalaya, dubbed the 'Scotland of the East'... so maybe haggis on the menu, or maybe not!

- Rahul

Day 27: Kaziranga

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Wed, 05 Mar 2008 07:01:00 +0000

The earliest start of the trip so far. 4:15am out of bed for the 5am elephant safari... we really are dedicated to our work! We gave our driver a bit of a roasting for turning up 30mins late, but nevertheless managed to join the other safari goers 'on time'. Having settled into our seats atop this great creature, we strode through the thick elephant grass and it wasn't long before we spotted a deer that had been killed most likely by a tiger, but it had long gone. It made me wonder how in the times of the Raj, the British rode these magnificent beasts and almost shot the tiger and other wildlife into near extinction.

Further ahead we came face to face with the fabled unicorn rhinoceros, named as such because of its solitary horn. All the elephants closed in and there was a momentary standoff when the rhino refused to be bullied away. Just when the rhino started to charge, the guard fired a blank and it ran off. We saw more rhinos as well as herds of swamp, hog and barking deer, recognisable by their distinctively loud bark.

After returning to the lodge for breakfast we headed out again for the morning jeep safari, where we rode in an open top around the Central Range of the National Park. This place is a haven for bird lovers and we could see why, as it felt as if we could hear each of the 500+ species in the park. We spotted more rhinos, elephants, deer and a monitaur lizard. We tried in vain to search for the elusive tiger, but it evaded us this time. The landscape varied throughout the ride, sometimes lush green tropical-like vegetation, to open grasslands thick with elephant grass and watering holes where thirsty animals would gather.

We were staying at the well-known Wild Grass resort today, and the dining hall and veranda conjured up images of a bygone colonial era. Later in the evening local girls performed traditional songs and dances to the hypnotic melody of Indian drums and flute. A great way to cap off what had been yet another action-packed day.

- Rahul

Day 26: Potasali and the road to Kaziranga

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 15:25:00 +0000

We woke up this morning at the ungodly hour of 5.30, and were out walking in Nameri National Park by 6. Our guide led us to the river and two boatmen rowed us across the river where we walked for about 2 hours. It was a bird watchers haven, the air thick with the sound of bird calls. We also came upon a wild elephant half hidden in the tall grass, as well as several Sambar (a white-tailed deer), some Hornbill, and on the walk back a tree full of Langurs (long-tailed monkeys). We could also hear some Barking Deer through the thick forest.

After an excellent breakfast at the immensely impressive Potasali Eco Camp, we hopped back in the jeep briefly and headed off for our float down the river in a dingy. The weather yet again was fantastic, and we floated down the river for a couple of hours before stopping off for lunch. Our boatmen produced a rice sack full of veg, rice, pots and pans, and collected firewood. From this they managed to cook up a fantastic meal, with 2 main dishes, a salad, and rice. We ate on the river bank, shaded from the sun by the dingy propped up by the oars, and felt like kings. After lunch we floated down another half hour or so, said goodbye to our boatmen and were off to Kaziranga National Park.

We arrived in Jupuri, a place related to Potasali Eco camp, and straight off we could see that the same careful touch had been applied there. After checking out some other accommodation, we settled on Jupuri as our first choice, though we found some more than reasonable alternatives. Tomorrow we will get up at 4.30am for an elephant safari, where apparently the elephants do a pincer movement to enable us to see the unicorn rhonos. I really can't wait!

- Dave

Day 25: Bomdila to Potasali Eco Camp

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 15:23:00 +0000

Having checked out of Bomdila, we set off on our journey to Potasali (Assam), only to find out that yet another strike was taking place in Assam, so all major roads were closed in Assam were closed until 5pm. That gave us some extra time to stop off at Sessa Orchid Sanctuary where a very friendly and enthusiastic old forest ranger led us into this hidden tropical forest off the main road. It reminded me immediately of the rainforests of South America - full of lush greenery, towering trees, flowing streams and the sound of birds and other wildlife. We were called back after venturing too far, as apparently leopards and tigers prowl the area!

We reached Bhalukpong at around 12pm and waited around for a further 3 hours until a police vehicle escorted us and a convoy of other vehicles into Assam. After 20km we turned off for Potasali Eco Camp, and immediately we were struck by the character of the place. Our accommodation was one of eleven tented bamboo structures furnished with sturdy low-lying bamboo beds and an ensuite bathroom. As it was approaching sunset, we wandered into the nearby fields where we saw local villagers herding their cows as the sky turned a crimson red followed by a fading pink.

Ronny, a local Assamese guy, runs this place and came across as a very charasmatic and knowledgable person loaded with all kinds of helpful information about the area and how best we can organise our tours. We had a fabulous dinner and some beers in the outdoor dining area, where we stared in amazement/disbelief at a group of dedicated birdwatchers flocked around a table comparing notes on the birds they had spotted that day. We ended the night by the bonfire, contemplating the adventure tomorrow holds when we go for a 6am jungle walk followed by rafting and lunch with the boatmen.

- Rahul

Days 23 & 24: Tawang and the road back to Bomdila

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 15:19:00 +0000

Yesterday we were due a relatively lazy day, starting at about 8.30, but just after 7 we realised we were in for a beautiful day. The view of the monestary from the room inspired us to brave the cold and so we headed back up to the monestary, where we casually wandered around, admiring yet again the monestary and its incredible setting before walking slowly back to Tawang. There was not a cloud in the sky. In the afternoon we just wandered around Tawang, every corner revealing another spectacular view. Hopefully we should have a link to some photos up in about a week so you can see what I mean. In the evening, after an excellent meal at our favourite hotel so far, we sat around the fire in the kitchen and chatted, people coming and going continually.

Today after breakfast we set off for Bomdila. The weather was a repeat of the previous day and the views were simply breath taking. I won't elaborate, I'll let the photos do the rest. Coming back over Sela Pass proved even more difficult than our first passing. The first time our jeep got stuck in the snow myself, Rahul and a guy who works on the roads managed to extract it, but the second time more manpower was required. So from the truck that was following us a mini-army jumped down, and we pushed/lifted the car to safety. Not before we were half-frozen to death by swirling icy winds though.

We stopped again at Sela's little hut restaurant for very much appreciated noodles and tea, and an even more appreciated fire. Once we had defrosted, we set off again and within an hour we stopped again, and sunbathed for half an hour! It was roasting, still being high enough to feel the full strength of the sun. We reached Bomdila at around five and found accomodation that surpassed our previous find, this one being in the grounds of Bomdila monestary, a great setting with very clean rooms decorated in the monestary style, and a balcony view of Bomdila and the mountains beyond. We watched a little of the evening prayers before dinner, and I'm now writing by candle-light as Arunachal's electricity situation has struck again. However from our balcony I can see a sky with more stars than any other I have ever seen.
Tomorrow we will head on to Potasali Eco Camp in Assam, and bid a sad farewell to Arunachal Pradesh. For now!

- Dave

Day 22: Tawang

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 13:14:00 +0000

Woke up under three layers of blankets, scarf and woolly hat... there's no doubting how cold it is here! We started the day at the stunning Tawang Monastery, perched majestically on a cliff edge overlooking a bowl of snow-capped mountains. Unfortunately we had missed the Buddhist Losar Festival, but the monastery was still adorned with colourful decorations and various offerings from devotees. We had a brief tour of the museum which contained artefacts brought over at the time of the Tibetan migration to India, some of which dated back over 500 years. We also caught a glimpse of the young Buddhist scholars reciting various prayers and the national anthem at their outdoor assembly.

Next stop was Ptso lake which is situated at an altitude of 14000 feet... our jeep only made it part of the way there, so we ditched the driver and our 'guide', and walked on for a few kilometres in the snow. Despite our best efforts it seemed to be further than we had thought so reluctantly turned back. Nevertheless it was just incredible to be out in the mountains surrounded by snow-covered trees and occasional prayer flags waving in the chilling wind. The 'genuine' North Face jackets seem a bargain now, even if some of the feathers seem to be popping out already! From there we proceeded on to Ani Gompa, a small nunnery also quaintly situated in the mountains.

After breaking for lunch (veg chow chow, which was the best lunch of the trip so far), we visited the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama and then stopped off at the very impressive War Memorial commemorating the Indian soldiers who had lost their lives in the 1962 Indo-China War. The time was 4:45pm and a bugle sounded followed by the lowering of the Indian flag as a 'salaam' to those who'd sacrificed their lives for this great nation. Even more humbling was the fact that the same ritual is carried out everyday by serving troops all over India.

- Rahul

Day 21- Dirang and the road to Tawang

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:04:00 +0000

Finally we have reached our most far flung destination, Tawang, home to the 2nd largest Buddhist monestary in the world, only superceded by the one in Lhasa, Tibet. Unfortunately it was getting dark as we arrived so we haven't yet really had a chance to see the town or the monestary, though in the fading light we could see the monestary out of our hotel room window so we are hoping for a nice view in the morning.

Yesterday, on paper, was not a great day. Our trek suffered various misfortunes - overcast weather, our inability to contact the real guide, the failure of the monkeys we hoped to see to appear and the fact that the "guide" we did use was the closest to a monkey we got to see! He was clueless and had to stop everyone we met to ask for directions. Nonetheless it was nice to get out in nature and walk through the forests for a few hours, and get some exercise ahead of today's drive.

This morning we started off at about 7, after breakfast. We drove slowly through the heavy fog. Then suddenly there was a clearing and the sun came out revealing stunning mountain scenery. Peaks appeared above a sea of clouds, snow-capped mountains behind the colourful Buddhist prayer flags that hung between trees. The fog came and went as we drove, hiding, then revealing stunning pine tree forests clinging to the mountain sides. Towards Sela Pass (4400m) our car struggled through the ice but we made it to Sela Pass, where our imitation North Face jackets came into their own... it was damn cold! We stopped in a little hut restaurant (the only one there) and joined a group huddled round the fire. It was very cosy, and we had some tea and noodles.

From there the road meandered down through the valley. We got stuck in the mud at one spot but thanks to some locals managed to extract ourselves and were headed on towards Tawang. We stopped briefly in the very picturesque village of Lhou for tea and a wander, then on into Tawang where we are staying in a very nice little hotel. Tomorrow we leave here at 7.30 to catch the morning prayers at the monestary.

-Dave

Days 19: Bomdila to Dirang

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:01:00 +0000

First stop was the bazaar in Bomdila for some emergency shopping. This was probably our last chance to purchase warm clothes before Tawang. We each bought North Face jackets. Somehow doubt they are genuine as mine has a special pocket designed for people whose right hand bends backwards, but nevertheless it's warm!

Only a 90min drive from Bomdila, Dirang lived up to its hype. Our hotel is perched on a hilltop overlooking Dirang Valley... this is Monpa territory, where the people mainly follow Buddhism. We walked around Old Dirang which is a very picturesque village with an old fort set amongst the hills and a small river intersecting it. Feeling a bit peckish, we went on to New Dirang, which had a good selection of small village shops. After wandering down to the river we headed back to the hotel, which has easily been the best we have stayed in. It felt like a place for fellow travellers, and this was also the first time we had come across groups of other foreigners, one group being a team of hardcore birdwatchers from the US.

Tomorrow is our first proper full day trek... the plan is to go to Sangti Valley which has a yak breeding centre, small villages, apple gardens... how we get there, we don't know yet, but we'll figure it out in the morning.
Night night.
- Rahul

Day 18 Bhalukpong to Bomdila

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:16:00 +0000

So on to Bomdila. After the officer required to let us cross the border finally arrived, having apparently had too much to drink the night before at some local festival and thus needing a car to come to collect him, we were back in Arunachal Pradesh. This side however is quite different. Instead of Doni-Polo and jungle, this side is charachterised by Buddhist temples and prayer flags. The scenery too is quite different, the forests are more sparse, there are more birds and there is definitely a more serene atmosphere. We even spotted some form of jungle cat before it scampered up a bank and disappeared into the forest.

We stopped at a couple of impressive temples before Bomdila and visited Shergaon, home of the Sherdukpen tribe but there was not really much to see though people were friendly, and we were met with looks of wonder. We arrived quite late in Bomdila and after trying a few hotels, finally found a nice one with an excellent restaurant. It's pretty cold here though as we are at around 2600 metres, so we will have to buy some more warm clothes tomorrow, particularly for the route to Tawang, which runs through Sela Pass, at 4400 metres. Tomorrow we will look around Bomdila and then move further north to the supposedly very scenic Dirang.

- Dave

Days 16 & 17: Itanagar and Bhalukpong

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:14:00 +0000

It was Arunachal Pradesh state day (Feb 20), so went down to Indira Gandhi Park for the cultural event in the morning. At first we were standing way back in the crowd unable to catch a decent view of proceedings. We then went to the VIP entrance, explained we were intrepid entrepreneurs looking to promote the state, and suddenly we were whisked to the front with the journalists and photographers! All of AP's tribes performed their native dances and then we bought a few local souvenirs from the exhibition stands. It was a very nice event. The afternoon was a bit of a write off since everything was closed, and in the evening we met up with Aruna and Komkar again to discuss business. We are really confident that we can work really well together, but the finer details are yet to be ironed out.

Today was an early start. We stuck with our reliable driver, and met up with Aruna and Komkar again, before starting the next leg of our journey. The drive was very good... plenty of nice scenery, without being too spectacular, mile upon mile of tea estates, and lots of busy market life on the roadside. The contrasting landscape between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh was never more apparent than when approaching Bhalukpong. Having driven for 4 hours along flat road, we could see the silhouettes of Arunachal's imposing mountains across the state border. We're staying at the very impressive Bhalukpong Tourist Cottage, which has fantastic views of the river and mountains.

Tomorrow it's onwards through more villages to Bomdila.
- Rahul

Day 15 - Itanagar

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:08:00 +0000

A pretty good day. We slept late, until 9, that felt good, then after some Internet frustration (half an hour to log into Google), we met with the operator and used their much faster Internet. From there we hit the museum which had exhibits on all the 26 major tribes of Arunachal, their dress, their customs and their homes. It was fantastic to be there with Aruna as she had such detailed knowledge of the tribes. The sheer quantity was a bit overwhelming and it was hard to believe that this all comes from one near-forgotten Indian state.

We looked at some of Aruna's photos of the tribes when we got back, then had some food and discussed the plan for the next leg up to Tawang in Western Arunachal. We leave the day after tomorrow as there is a student union strike tomorrow - protesting about the governments lack of action in the face of Arunachal students being forced into terrorist activity by neighbouring Nagaland terrorists - which unusually means that the roads will be closed until 5pm.
-Dave

Day 14: Along - (North Lakhimpur) - Itanagar

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:27:00 +0000

Finally, clean clothes!! After 2 weeks of wearing the same clothes, we were finally able to get our clothes washed! Dave still smells, but not as bad!
We'd gone out for dinner the previous night to a traditional tribal home, arranged by a unscrupulous guide who had got our contact details from the hotel. It was a really good night and we were served the local brew 'Apong' made from rice, along with rice and veggies on banana leaf. The guide then turned up at 7:30am complaining that we hadn't tipped him!
After getting rid of him, we set off with the intention of staying the night at North Lakhimpur (Assam)... maybe we had been spoilt by the scenery so far, as there was nothing special to see on the way. We did stop at an archaeological site en route where remains of an old mandir have been excavated, but were very disappointed, as clearly the government/state has not spent any money on maintenance.

We finally got to Assam, only to find out that there was going to be a strike on tomorrow, so all major roads would be closed. Therefore, we had to drive on to Itanagar (Arunachal Pradesh) the same night. We stopped off at North Lakhimpur briefly to check out a hotel and continued on to Itanagar. We finally made it to Itanagar 14 hours later!
We've been really lucky with our driver, Ratul (not a typo and no relation!), as he drove the whole day, never complained and was always polite. He's definitely someone we'd like to use on future tours.
We were left with food for thought, as we may need to change the order of our itinerary because in 2 days time we leave on the next leg of our journey to Bomdila which is also going to be a day's drive.

I'm knackered, so more later!

- Rahul

Day 13 - Around Along

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:26:00 +0000

Another great day! We woke up and headed out to Kabu village, a few kilometres from Along and got out of the jeep to walk to Paia, about 3km along the river. The first obstacle to navigate was the spectacular, and rather unsturdy feeling bamboo bridge. The thing was amazing, a fantastic design that can supposedly carry 20 people comfortably. It felt a little hair-raising with just two of us though. Then we stopped for a break by the river bank and drank in the scenery, a lovely moment of serenity.

Then we got a bit lost, but eventually found our way to Paia, where apparently cars could not enter, so we had to find our driver as we had agreed to meet him in Paia. We eventually found him, and famished stopped at a little shop to inquire about food. They offered to make us food, and in the meantime he showed us his orphanage, and school for disabled and disavdantaged children. It was exactly the kind of grassroots project we had been hoping to find. We chatted more and found that he had land we could construct a local style house on, something we had already considered, and then lease it back from him for the tours, with the profits going to the school. Obviously there are plenty of factors still to consider but it looks very promising.
This evening we are to eat in a local house, something we arranged through an intermediary in the hotel...

-David

Day 12: Daporijo - Along

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:25:00 +0000

Had our first taste of Indian bureaucracy today. We were staying in an 'inspection bungalow' with a great view over the village of Dumporijo and were quoted one price before checking in, however on check out, the rate suddenly doubled for tourists. Anyway, we ended up reaching a compromise, but were nonetheless left with a bitter taste in our mouth.
It also spoilt a great start to the day. A local gentleman, by the name of Kali Paja, had spotted us walking around the evening before, and had kindly invited us for breakfast. We were treated to delicious sweet potato, roti, aloo and fruit. He showed us his family photo album and gave us some tips on Tawang, where he had spent 5 years. He came across as a very gentle and sincere man. He's promised us food traditionally cooked in bamboo next time, so we hope to be back soon!

En route to Along, we noticed scars of brown deforested mountains in amongst the lush green ones. It was clear that the scale of deforestation was for commercial purposes with timber going beyond the villages of Arunachal Pradesh.

By sheer coincidence we bumped into the tour operator we had met in Delhi. He was escorting two Americans on a tour of AP, and we had a few drinks with them. The guide came across as very passionate about Arunachal, and we picked up some more useful tips on how best to conduct our future tours. More food for thought.

- Rahul

Day 11 - Daporijo, Dumporijo and back towards Raga

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:23:00 +0000

We got up early again and drove back along the route towards Raga that we had done in the dark on the way. It was a beautiful sunny day and the scenery was superb. Lush green forests and layer upon layer of mountain backdrops. It was breath-taking. We stopped off in a couple of litle villages and wandered around greeted by smiling kids who were filled with giggles seeing their photos on our cameras. We headed back to Dumporijo, and wandered around a bit before being invited in by a Galong man who spoke excellent English and showed us his bear skin and ancient sword, and explained more about the tribes of the region and how the Chinese were encouraging the locals to cross into China with the lure of good jobs. He also told us that the Chinese had reached as far a Dumporijo in the 1962 war. We agreed to come back again for tea at 8am as we had to decline his offer of dinner as ours was already arranged. We headed back up to our scenic hotel for some excellent veggie dinner and a beer to cap off another day on the road.

- Dave

Day 10: Daporijo

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:22:00 +0000

Definitely the worst hotel of the trip for me. Windowless room with a dingy bathroom, that had a huge hole in the wall providing plenty of entertainment for anyone caring to watch! Daporijo is a must for the trip because of its stunning scenery but there are only two 'hotels' in town, both way below acceptable Western standards. During the day we crossed the river and entered the small village of Lida where there is a beautiful Donyi Polo mandir delicately balanced at the top of some rocks in the river. I told Dave this would make a great picnic spot, and that's when Dave had his eureka moment. Even better, this would be an unbelievable location for camping... it had everything, it was cut off from the noise of the main town, on the bank of the river, a waterfall, stunning mountain scenery and lush green landscapes. We are both keen that our tours should benefit local communities, and we feel that by purchasing supplies from the local village and engaging them from the start, they too should gain from this. Further on we discovered another perfect lunch spot, a short drive uphill overlooking the quaint village of Dumporijo.
All in all, a very satisfying day's work!

- Rahul

Day 9: Ziro-Raga-Daporijo

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:21:00 +0000

I thought visting the Apatani village would never be topped. How wrong I was! On arrival into Raga, we were kindly invited to attend a family 'puja' ceremony. After being offered Poinia served in a simple but beautiful bamboo 'cup', I did my best to avoid eating the local 'mithun' meat. Nothing though prepared me for what happened next. I felt something brush against my back, only to notice two men carrying a large wild pig strung upside down from a bamboo pole. I tried to watch as they lunged into the pig as it squealed in agony. Being a 'fishatarian', it was too much for me and I had to leave the room. Then I saw what was coming next. The next victim, an elegant muscular mithun, was being dragged to a sacrificial area, followed swiftly by a panic-stricken goat, chickens and even a dog! I kept a distance and found the experience too overwhelming and stomach-churning.

It was amazing for me to think that in a mainly vegetarian land which considers the cow sacred, in this remote part such traditions still occur. However despite the brutality of these sacrifices, I was still able to feel the genuine warmth of the local tribe people. This was possibly the first time an 'outsider' had been able to witness a very personal ceremony, and they wanted to share their culture with us. They believe that by offering these animals to God, they would be rewarded with a good harvest and healthy and prosperous family. We shared more drinks, sang each others local songs and even did some impromptu bhangra (Punjabi song/dance)!
It was a day full of confused, conflicting, upsetting, heart-warming and exhilarating emotions, which perfectly sums up this great and fascinating country.

- Rahul

Day 9: Ziro to Daporijo

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:20:00 +0000

My God what a day! We left Ziro at about 7 and drove through some beautiful scenery on the way to the village of Raga, a heartland of the Hill Miri tribe. We got out and walked around for a little before being invited in to a family celebration in a local house where some members of the family had come home from as afield as Kashmir to attend. We gladly accepted and were promtly given seats by the fire and bamboo glasses filled with a potent drink made from mustard seeds called Poinia, and offered some Mithun, a ferocious-looking wild mountain cow. We learned that they were having a Puja (prayer ceremony) that occurs only once a year, sometimes less depending on the positioning of the stars. We were not at all prepared for what came next... we witnessed the live sacrifice of a wild pig, a pregnant Mithun, a goat (whose head was lopped off with an axe), some chickens and a dog. There was blood everywhere and I have to admit I felt more than a little shell-shocked!

As they stuffed leaves into the pig and prepared the Mithun liver, we drank down more Poinya and some Polo (a millet-based drink). We needed it! The Donyi-Polo priest sifted through the chicken liver pieces to foretell what fortune the coming year would bring. Our "glasses" were kept topped up at all times and we were treated as guests of honour. We sang and danced along with their songs and even got them to sing along with a verse of "With or without you" and "The Blaydon Races". We toasted with "Hijic", the local word as well as "Slainte". We left a little the worse for wear and whole lot richer for the experience. We promised to send them some photos and we were each given a Donyi-Polo necklace taken from around their own necks. We drove on through the fog and the darkness and reached Daporijo where we slept like babies. Without doubt I have never experienced a day quite like that!

- Dave

Day 8: Ziro Valley Villages

noreply@blogger.com (Travel The Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:19:00 +0000

After yesterday's excitement, today we visited some more Apatani villages in ziro valley - namely Hari, Haja and Reru. The houses were similar to those from Hija, though not quite as uniform and we did not get an invite inside today. The villages were quieter during the day as most people were out cutting wood or working in the fields. The locals were friendly nonetheless and those kids that were learning English in school were very keen to try theirs out. Some of the flooded Paddy fields were covered in a red algae-like plant, that contrasted with the backdrop of lush green bamboo and pine forests shrouded in rising mists.

Further along the route we met a guy who claimed to be the general secretary of the region (we later found out he was no longer in the position), who jumped in the jeep to show us some local sights. He talked manically, gesticulating wildly, bursting in to song sporadically... he was plainly quite mad, but very amusing. After a lunch of paratha and potato curry followed by masala tea in a roadside cafe, we turned back for Ziro. Tomorrow we head on to Daporijo, the start of the Tagin tribe region, passing through Hill Miri territory.

- David